It's My Birthday and I'll Celebrate it How I want To

It's my birthday today... It is the forty-fourth year of my existence in this exquisite, challenging and exciting life. This past year has been very interesting, full of enlightening experiences to bring me to new levels of awareness and I thought it only fitting that my birthday celebration should be just as unique.  To begin with, I wanted it to be about sharing and connecting with others instead of expectations for myself.  I also wanted to do what pleased me without waiting for approval or surprises... and I decided this year, I would celebrate four times in four different places and different people...
With these thought in mind, I bought myself a birthday cake last Saturday and went to have a double celebration with my great aunt, Sabiha Hala; she turned 98 this year and unfortunately I missed the birthday party her neighbors threw for her last month.  

Instead of the traditional Happy Birthday greetings, I picked one that said 'We Love You, So Glad You are Among Us' for the message on our cake.  Anyone who has ever met my Sabiha Hala would definitely agree this is the perfect sentiment for her... I would also like to hope that some day it would a sentiment my nieces and nephews would think in regards to myself...

I had bought her a bracelet with the evil eye to ward away 'Nazar' (bad things that can come upon a person due to other people's enviousness.)  So, at 11 in the morning, I got her out of bed to sit at the table I had set for her and blow out candles on a birthday cake for the two of us.  I don't remember ever having a more meaningful or memorable birthday experience.  She assured me that I reminded her of herself and she would 'bestow her hand' (pass on her wisdom and knowledge) upon me; in return I insisted I wasn't ready for the honor just yet.  


Later on in the day, I blew out another candle with my husband since he wasn't going to be with me today.  Although, his voice was the first one I heard this morning as soon as I woke up.  And now, I am ready to start my festivities here in New Jersey with ... who ever is available... 

I am planning to go bake a gluten-free cake for myself now and invite one or two people over for dinner.  We'll see how the rest of my celebrations will turn out... but... I have already received so many wonderful gifts this year ... a nephew, an incredible summer in Bodrum, news of another expected newcomer into the family, hope for a great year with my whole family nearby, and I have also given myself the gift of enriching my life through connecting and sharing...


Happy Birthday to Me...  So Glad to be in Among this World...

Dibeklihan - An Amazing Art Village..

I am very lucky to have a wonderfully artistic cousin, Ozlem, that I grew up with who is always on the lookout for interesting places, to spend our little, stolen moments together.  We were fortunate to be in Bodrum at the same time this year and found one evening to runaway together, leaving behind our husbands and families to enjoy amusing and gratifying conversation amongst wonderful works of art and antiques at a fantasy palace...

Dibekli Han is on the way to Yalikavak from the Turgutreis road (turn right by Kipa); there is a small sign that says Yakakoy on the left close to the beginning of the road before the descdend into Yalikavak through the hills.
As far as I understand it, this has been the genius project of an architect couple from Izmir as a reaction to Bodrum being overrun by developers and the paparazzi culture.  What a way to protest...
It consists of a series of buildings, which are on small alleys and streets named after famous Turkish artists, including several art galleries, a flea market, shops selling different handicrafts and even a little museum, all full of artifacts from all over Anatolia.  The presentation of the artworks and the items for sale even the sidewalks are so creative that I tripped a couple of times from not looking where I was going.  The works on view were just as amazing as the place itself and the accompanying musics were so perfect.  My particular favorite was the sculpture exhibit on the open courtyard of Artist Erdinc Bakla - http://www.erdincbakla.com/English/

There is also a restaurant on premises Dibek Sofrasi that serves local Aegean and Anatolian dishes that seemed to be very popular.  Tables were hard to get and we didn't have time to linger; the food presentation was worthy of the rest of the place and there was suppose to be live music two or three nights a week.

Dinner is not the only option since they have a coffee house in the courtyard that served the most flagrant and appetizing cakes and cookies.
We had to leave before we could partake any of their offerings and be satisfied with feeding our souls but this place is on the top of my to-do list for next year.
Another exciting development is that my cousin's husband Mehmet of one of my favorite blogs http://mehmetuyargil.blogspot.com/ is suppose to have an exhibition of his photographs there next May; who knows maybe I will get a chance to catch that.  I think I will put this on my wishlist right now.

An Amazing Village of Art that Satisfies All the Senses (check out their website)

DIBEKLIHAN
Yakakoy Cilek Caddesi,
Ortakent, BODRUM
Tel:  0532 527 7649

Romantic Sunset with Good Food

July 11 2010
Kadikalesi, Bodrum
It was the ending of a particularly windy day; we were suppose to have dinner with our friend Ali and his girlfriend Selen.  I am not sure who suggested it but Korfez Restaurant in Kadikalesi was the perfect choice for such a lovely evening.  My husband and I had dined here last year; we had arrived at a time when the sun was still up and chose to eat on the patio of the restaurant while I looked out longingly to the tables that were being setup for the dinner service, up front on the sand.  Our meal was good quality but not as memorable as the one we had on this particular evening, sitting at a table by the water, on the sand with the waves crashing vehemently all around us and the sun descending behind the hills of Kadikalesi... It was a magical evening... The food was great - typical Mediterranean- Aegean fare of wonderful mezes - all delicious but the 'Kopoglu' was the biggest hit at our table that night, and grilled fish we had at the suggestion of our server was wonderful as well.  We were told by another friend to ask if there was the secret specialty, squid prepared with its ink, but was not fortunate enough to run into this either time we were there; I will forever wonder about this until I can taste it for myself.  The biggest joke of the evening was about the waiter assuring us as we arrived that the weather would turn and the water would calm down, he said that he grew up in the area and knew the signs well... he was wrong but we took the random slight dousing as part of the charm of the whole experience.

Korfez restaurant is located in Kadikalesi, on the road between Turgutreis and Gumusluk.This tiny waterfront village  is one of my favorite places in Bodrum for its quaint, tranquil appeal that still retains its authentic pastoral quality.  The road between Turgutreis and Gumusluk is a winding road with lush flora that turns the whole panorama into a kaleidescope of pure colors, passing through small hamlets and resorts situated discreetly in the surrounding area.  As soon as you spot the 'bakkal' (grocery store) and the small mosque with the intricate, white minaret, you turn towards the water to reach a tiny square with a couple of hotels and restaurants.  There is a parking lot right in the middle and Korfez Restaurant is the first restaurant you will run into.  I highly recommend this place to anyone visiting the area, especially around sunset.

Video of Kadikalesi, Korfez Restaurant Review by a renown Turkish Gourmet

Korfez Restaurant
Kadikalesi Yalisi
Turgutreis - Bodrum
Tel:  0252 382 2757
       0542 311 4437

Last Two Dinners Out On the Town

We had two more free nights on our own left in Yahsi before we were to go to a hotel, to be with our friends for four days.   As much as these all inclusive establishments are convenient, I find them to be stifling as if I am losing my freedom somehow but this is the only way four families can get together in harmony so I go willingly.  This has been the reminder that has been on my mind…only two more nights to revel in the delights Bodrum has to offer.  I didn’t want to waste those precious nights by trying some new restaurant but wanted to go back to my favorites in order to savor them in conscious bliss and store the experiences in the recesses of my mind for the cold, hard winter days and nights of New Jersey.   So, we picked the two different establishments for two different reasons. 

Ever since the night of my son, Murat’s birthday dinner, in Yalikavak, I had been dreaming of O’ Sole mio and the incredible gluten-free pizza, Kutlu Bey prepared for me that night.  I was waiting for the opportunity to go back and it arrived on Saturday, as soon as Murat suggested we eat pizza.  I could already smell the wonderful aromas emanating from the tiny kitchen and feel my mouth start to water at the prospect of a fulfilling dining experience.  We arrived just as they were winding down from a huge order to-go to a yacht and were very lucky to find the place practically to ourselves; till the other patrons arrived, Guloren Hanim, the managing partner and Kutlu Bey Chef/ partner were able to chat with us as they took our order and later while we enjoyed our dinner.   This time, we just left the decision of what type of pizza to prepare to Kutlu Bey and we were not disappointed when he brought out a special pizza topped with freshly delivered imported hams and bacons from Italy and France.  But this wasn’t the extraordinary surprise in store for me that night; it came in the form of especially baked gluten-free garlic bread, same as the one my husband and son were having.  Not being left out makes me feel as happy as a kid…  The pizza was so good that it begged for a glass of red wine.  Everything that night, the green checkered table cloth, the roses in the terracotta vase, the red wine and the pizza on huge, white, round plates, even the art work displayed inside the shop were part of the perfect image worthy of a master artist.  We parted with the owners with wishes of seeing each other next summer and sharing email addresses and promises of keeping in touch.

Our next night’s dinner was just as gratifying for reasons besides the exceptional food.  My husband and I had gone out to eat at Palavra, a local restaurant in Yahsi which had been recommended by several of our friends; we were very happy with everything we tried. Palavra is a seafood restaurant that is situated right on the water with the tables setup on the sand and the sound of waves was the background music to our ears as we sipped our drinks and enjoyed excellent ‘mezes’; although I should actually say, while I sipped my ‘Raki’ (Turkish Ouzo) since my husband’s preferred beverage was Diet Coke, as usual.   When the waiter came to get our drink orders and I asked for a double ‘raki’, he suggested that I get a small bottle; when he saw me hesitate, he mentioned that they could put away the rest for the next time I was there.  Just the idea of having a bottle of ‘Raki’ with my name on it at a ‘meyhane’ (a drinking establishment) was so wicked that I had to do it.  We didn’t have any fish but we’ve been told it is just as great as their ‘mezes’.  We had eggplant salad, fava (broad bean paste), kopoglu – a local specialty (fried eggplant, peppers and tomatoes served in garlic yogurt), octopus salad, pilav with octopus, sea bass in mustard sauce, fried and grilled Calamari, and a shepherd’s salad (salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and onions with oil and lemon juice) – all fabulous… and wonderful accompaniments for my left over bottle of ‘Raki’.   They had baklava and ‘kalburabasti’ (a Turkish desert baked with flour and butter and then dunk in syrup) that Mehmet and Murat both raved about.  It’s definitely worth a trip into Yahsi for this dining extravaganza.

I can now go happily to my golden cage of open buffets and endless drinks knowing that I’ve already had the best.

Palavra Fish Restaurant  http://www.palavrabalik.com/tr/?main=restaurant

Ortakent Yahsi Belediyesi

Bodrum

Tel : (+90 252) 358 62 90
Gsm: (+90 532) 677 39 67

Gumusluk... Again...

An Art Studio on the way to Gumusluk...
Old windmills line the top of the hill as you climb up from Gumusluk to go to the main road between Bodrum and Turgutreis.  Unfortunately, there are very few of them left in the surrounding areas of Bodrum; these romantic relics were used to grind flour as late as the 70's.  Now, they can be found as souvenirs in gift shops.  This Studio built around an old windmill is very striking in the middle of the road, I hope to visit it one of these days.
 

Closeup of a restaurant on the main pedestrian street in Gumusluk... The main pedestrian street is lined with lots of quaint restaurants sitting on the water; on the other side of the street is their kitchens and refrigerators where their selection of 'meze' or fish are displayed for the customers to pick and choose from.

100% natural light fixtures made out of dried Gourd - this is a classic decorative object from this area of the country.  'Le Kabak' is a well-known brand that has its main shop in Derekoy, on the road to Gumusluk; there are at least two other similar shops past this one and it is a good idea to shop around before buying.

Morning Coffee Break turned into Major Road Trip

We are staying in Yahsi, a little seaside village of Bodrum.  Around here, every corner you turn is a new thrill, all the different bays have a different taste, a different feel to them; I have been planning to discover the other provinces in the area since I got here.  This morning I decided to take the opportunity of taking my mother-in-law out for coffee to go exploring. I put her in the passenger seat, started a commentary about our surroundings and began to drive.  There is road work going on between Bodrum and Ortakent and in order to avoid this I started to use the back-roads through Bitez, but I am not as familiar with the back roads for someone who is taking short cuts should be, ended up farther ahead of my intersection and didn't even realize it until I got into Bodrum.  I started off with the intention of going to Gundogan, but we found ourselves half way to the airport, totally north of the peninsula, on the road to Torba.  This turned out to be a pleasant surprise since the landscape around Torba is really beautiful and it's not as developed as other areas;  we could smell the pines surrounding us.

We past Torba and headed towards GolTurkbuku, this area has recently become very popular so I wasn't sure what to expect. All I know about Turkbuku is that it is the hangout of all Istanbul society and most of the big name hotels, restaurants or clubs have opened beaches and clubs here. So it was a big surprise to follow the signs for GolTurkbuku and find ourselves in a little village with humble guesthouses and motels.  I started driving into every little street I could find that headed in the direction of the water to find us a tea-garden or a cafe.  None of the narrow streets near the water had any available parking and the closest teahouse was quite a distance.  I finally found a large parking lot that belonged to a hotel, parked my car, helped my mother-in-law out of the car and headed straight for the tables set out in front of the yard.  When we questioned the parking attendant, we found out that we were actually in Golkoy and Turkbuku was the next bay over; the two municipalities together was called GolTurkbuku.  

The boats lined up before us advertised moonlight tours of different bays and coves.  There were small hotels and beaches lined up all along the shoreline.

We sat in the shade with a wonderful breeze and enjoyed our Turkish Coffee while watching the little bay and the people suntanning or swimming.  The sea seemed to be very clean and clear.  The combination name had me confused at first but now I realized that all the fuss must've been about Turkbuku.  Golkoy seemed like a lovely area, luckily, not spoiled yet, by overdeveloping.  After coffee, we took off to see if we could find Turkbuku.  The roads here have no logic to them, you go up and down hills and not necessarily end up where your sense of direction tells you to expect to end up but that's the beauty of driving around in such a place.  Getting lost is so much fun, you get to see all kinds of little streets and cute houses you would not normally get to see.  I really liked driving around the streets of Golkoy and taking photographs.  My only suggestion to anyone interested in coming here is to get in a vehicle and drive around, get lost and enjoy, you never know what will turn up around the next corner.

There were so many lovely homes with beatiful flowers on their doorsteps, I wasn't sure what to capture.  I am afraid the time of day and my Blackberry couldn't do justice to the essence of this charming place.

Finally, we made it to the main road and found our way into Turkbuku in a couple of minutes.  We drove down toward the shore to find the main pedestrian street by the water; it was open to cars at the time but we were informed that it would be closed in ten minutes, at noon.  It was getting hot out and I wanted to get my mother-in-law back home, this turned out to be just a scouting trip - we had to come back another time to explore Turkbuku.  Just as we were turning around I got a call from home, asking for tomatoes and lemons; fortunately today the bazaar was setup in Turkbuku. 

I ran in and out but not before taking a couple of pictures and buying a wooden spoon from a mobile vendor. He was calling out that he had the best 'Simsir Kasik' (Boxtree Spoon) I asked him about his spoons and why they were so expensive and he insured me that there was no way anything could happen to these best quality spoons.  I told him I could get them for 1 Lira in Istanbul while he was asking for 5.  With a huff, he finally pulled one out, stuck it in my bag and said 'Here you go, take it and go.'  I gave him all the change I had in my pocket and we said goodbye.  I have a thing for wooden spoons, I refuse to cook with anything else; I put this one in my suitcase as soon as I got home.  It is flat and suppose to be used to stir 'pilav' (Rice).  I will have to try it out to see if it really is as good as he says, because stirring 'pilav' is a risky business, it can get sticky.

We made our way back driving from Turkbuku to Yalikavak and then home to Yahsi again.  It was a nice road trip I hope to repeat again, hopefully this time using the shorter route so we will have more time to enjoy the view.

My Solution for an Empty Nest Syndrome.

I woke up feeling a little bereft this morning.  Both the boys were gone, Hasan had returned to New Jersey last week, Murat had left on a sailing trip for a week...it was just my husband, my mother-in-law, Bostan and I left in the house...  and today was Hasan's birthday too... So what do we do now, I asked myself, even before I got out of bed...  Since I was the first one out of bed, I moped around for a bit waiting for everyone to wake up. After a while I started to plan our breakfast, my brilliant solution to a mellow mood...  I would make eggs... something a little creative, maybe... Then my husband woke up and I asked him how he would like his eggs, his  response was 'Menemen' not at all surprising since this is his usual response to this question nine times out of ten.  'Menemen' is a Turkish invention that can be eaten for breakfast or for a meal since it is made with tomatoes and peppers and even at times, onions.  I am not sure if there is any one set recipe, as long as you add tomatoes and eggs.  I just go by whatever I have on hand at the moment or however the mood strikes me.  Here are the general guidelines:

'Menemen' (Eggs with tomatoes)

Olive oil
Eggs
Tomatoes
Peppers (Red or green)
Onion (Optional)
Parsley (Optional)
Cheese (Feta- Optional)
Salt and Pepper to taste

The following is how I prepared the eggs in the picture... you have free reign... go wild...

1.  I put 1 Tbspn of olive oil and 1 Tbspn vegetable oil in a pan and
2.  sautéd the diced red peppers  (1 big pepper)  meanwhile
3.  I put two big tomatoes in boiling water for two minutes (this will help to peel them very, very easily), took  them out, peeled and diced them;
4.  threw the tomatoes into the pan as well, keep on sautéing on low heat, till the liquid had evaporated from the tomatoes and only the oil was left with the vegetables in the pan - this takes about 10-15 minutes.
5.  I made little indentations in the tomato mixture and broke 5 whole eggs and 2 egg yolks into this.
6.  Closed the lid for a little bit and let it cook.
7.  I checked after a couple of minutes to see if the egg whites had started to cook- from now on everything depends on your taste- we don't like our eggs to be cooked too much so
8. when the eggs whites started look like they had started to set (Turned a white color from the clear liquid) I put my 1/2 cup of shredded feta cheese in at this point and cook until the cheese has melted,
9.  add the 2 Tbspn of chopped parsley and keep it on the heat for another minute and serve.

Afiyet Olsun...
Bon Apetite...

Note: If you want to add onions, add them with the peppers and cook them until they turn yellow.  You can use any kind of cheese but feta is the best suited one in my opinion.
Be forewarned, you will consume lots and lots of bread with this meal.  The best would be Turkish bread, of course, but a baguette or a sour dough will do fine as well.

Our Saturday Ritual in Turgutreis

Bodrum, Turkey

Most of my life I’ve felt like a visitor passing through without belonging to any place in particular; I would be forever getting ready for the next trip. When I was a teenager growing up in the States, I used to think that if we owned a summer house in Turkey, I would have a place and friends to call my own and feel a sense of normalcy somehow.  While most of my friends were envious of my life of jet setting across the Atlantic back and forth, I always envied their simple summer plans of going away to the same place to be with the same people, doing the same things.   Even having a family didn’t make a difference in my life, now I was moving the whole family back and forth. These were the thoughts I always had to contend with as I agonized over our summer plans every single year; we never were able create the stable atmosphere I had been longing for.    Maybe due to the fact that we now live in New Jersey, we were finally able to realize this lifelong dream of mine and get a house in Bodrum this summer.  Ironically, now it’s the boys who want to make plans of staying put and living like a normal teenager while we are dragging them here, for their own good.

I feel we have finally succeeded in creating the perfect atmosphere this summer of sharing good times with loved ones in one of the most beautiful parts of Turkey, a summer to remember and to repeat.  We feel at home and a part of a community that we are already making plans to return to next year; this is due in part to some simple rituals we have established as a part of our life here.  We go into Turgutreis every Saturday to have lunch, 'Manti' (Turkish Ravioli) especially prepared for us; Ali, the proprietor/chef asks us early on in the week, the only question of how many people it will be this Saturday.  So far, we have been there every week as a family with slight variations within the group.  This week our niece, Aydan, her husband, Yucel, my cousin, Ozlem, and her husband, Mehmet joined us.  Murat was suppose to leave for Marmaris, to go sailing,  but he just couldn’t go before he had his ‘Manti’ with the family and then my husband had to rush him into Bodrum to catch his bus.  

Another ritual is our shopping forays into the Turgutreis Saturday bazaar.  This week we had to pick up a couple of things for Murat to take with him on his trip so I took him to the textile part of the bazaar while Mehmet went to get our vegetables.  It was an incredibly hot and crowded day but still worth it for the photo opportunities it afforded if nothing else.  I have been checking out the colorful fabrics they have on display, trying to find excuses for buying the whole lot every week; I have to come up with something soon, since I won't get another chance after next week and I know I will be dreaming of these fabrics when I get home and kicking myself if I leave without buying anything.  Having a seventeen year old is not very conducive to this kind of frivolous shopping so I had to leave the bazaar without a single purchase this week as well.  I have some mean plans for next Saturday though, I just might get up at the break of dawn to beat the heat and the crowds and go crazy.  I have heard from my sister-in-law that the stands are setup before dawn, this I have to check out for myself and add to my list of unique experiences. 

Even as Murat was dragging me by the scruff of my neck, I was still able to get a couple of shots of the colorful array.

This is my favorite stand of table cloths and bedspreads and towels made from 100% natural cottons.  My newest obsession is the 'Pestamal', sarong-like cloths worn wrapped around in the Turkish Baths that absorb moisture like a regular towel and weigh next to nothing.  I have been buying them every time I go into the bazaar and I think I will take a dozen back with me to give as presents.  I have bought another variety of 'Pestamal' to use as a table cloth.  This place is a paradise for someone like me who is crazy enough to have a collection of textiles worthy of a seamstress.

After getting back across the street to the vegetable vendors, I couldn't resist taking more pictures of the stands there.  I am not sure if its the colors or the abundance of the array, I am totally fascinated with the displays. 

  

These are the dried vegetables sold by the spice vendors.  The dried eggplant is used to make a 'Dolma' using cracked wheat instead of rice with ground lamb and red pepper (according to taste, of course), in the winter months when they don't have the fresh vegetable.  The end result is something out of this world, to put a bit of sustenance in to anybody suffering in the cold, dreary winter months. 

I wonder if these textile would help to chase away the winter blues as well...

Breakfast at Gumusluk

I guess I must’ve read about it in a book at some point… having breakfast in Gumusluk… wherever I got the idea, this has been a picture I have been carrying around in my mind for the longest time.  It doesn’t sound like an impossible task but I was never able to realize this in our past trips to the area.  We would be staying in a different section of Bodrum and usually come by in the evenings for dinner or to have tea at the teahouse in the town square,  something that is mentioned in most guidebooks.  I don’t know how many times we came by here for these, but never in the morning for breakfast. 

There is something that appeals to me about early mornings.  Every city or town has a special feel in the morning that distinguishes it from all the rest like no other time of day; whenever I travel I love to get up early to experience that mood which I feel is especially mine to discover.  It’s usually me and the locals that are up and about at such hours; I love the smells and the sounds that can be deciphered more clearly and give the place its essence. 

When I left for my summer vacation, the first goal I had in mind was to give myself a time-off from the chaos of my mind that tends to go into overdrive as soon as I wake up… aka… sleep late.  This has been working out quite nicely and I have been waking up at hours I can’t seem to recall waking up at, maybe ever.  Unfortunately, the season being what it is and the heat during the day limiting our activities has made it a little difficult for me to get to some of the places I had planned on going to.  Gumusluk was on the top of my list of places I wanted to visit and I finally realized my only chance might be if I get up early enough in the morning. 

I first came to Gumusluk more than twenty years ago, with my husband-to-be and the impression it has left on me is still unaltered; this has to be one of cutest little villages I know of anywhere.  At the time, it was just a couple of seafood restaurants situated around a little cove, a teahouse in the town square and a few shops. Today it is a lot more restaurants, gourmet cafes, art studios and beach clubs but the same charming atmosphere still prevails.  It is reached by driving through, olive groves, orchards, small villages and quaint dwellings for about fifteen minutes from the main road between Bodrum and Turgutreis, following the signs for Gumusluk or Myndos.  It is the end of the road and you have to park your car here and walk around on foot to enjoy all that Gumusluk has to offer. 

Just as I was getting ready for bed last night, I remembered that I still hadn’t been to Gumusluk and going to breakfast there would be my new experience of the week (on any kind of trip outside of my regular dwelling, I always try to do at least one new thing that I had never tried before) So, I got up at 7.30 this morning and was on my way in ten minutes.  I hadn’t been driving since I came here and I was a little intimidated at first but after the first couple of kilometers I was humming to the tunes of Radio Kos from across the sea (you can see the Greek Island Kos very clearly from our balcony.)  Even though I could make out most of the songs, listening to a radio announcer talking in a foreign language gave the whole experience an exotic edge.  

I finally arrived in Gumusluk and drove to the left of the parking lot in the middle of town and found a shady parking spot behind one of the restaurants.  I was so excited that I had to restrain myself from jumping out of my car and running.  What greeted me when I made it to the main street was better than I could’ve imagined.   I found myself in an old fashioned teagarden – these are similar to a bar or café in the town square of an old European town.  I walked around for a little bit and noticed that there were a lot of little cafes that offered breakfast.  The original teagarden I saw was the most appealing so I went back there and found myself a table right by the water and ordered my first glass of tea.  Turkish tea is brewed in a special kettle that sits atop a kettle of boiling water and it is drunk out of small, dainty glasses.  The whole ritual of having Turkish tea is one of my favorites, I love the afternoon tea as well as the tea we have with our breakfast.  There were a lot of wonderful smells permeating the air but all of them are made with flour so that was a pleasure I couldn’t enjoy this morning. 

There was a slight breeze that was running through the air and I could sit and listen to the lapping waves while I watched the colorful boats docked in the little cove.  I sat there for about two hours and enjoyed the morning.  Around 9.30 little by little people started to fill the tables around me and I realized it was time for me to go, the magical hour was over.  Just as I was leaving I noticed a woman preparing her fruit juice stand and recognized her from last year.  We chatted for a bit about how business was and the restaurants in the area and then I had to leave.  The ride back was just as enjoyable as the ride going in.  I had done one of the things I had always wanted to do, enjoyed it immensely and decided that I absolutely had to come back here with my husband the next time.  There indeed is something special about having breakfast at Gumusluk; I hope to repeat the experience as often as possible this next week.

Bodrum... Bodrum...

Bodrum is one of the most precious holiday spots in Turkey.  It is a peninsula that is situated in the heart of the Aegean region and a province of the city of Mugla.  It is very easily accessible by bus or plane (around one hour from Istanbul or Ankara).  There are over 20 flights coming into Bodrum daily; the airport is only a half hour ride from city center.   It is a very easy and scenic drive by the water with beautiful panoramas enfolding before you to whet your appetite for more delights to come.

You know you are in the right place when you start to see the white stucco cubic houses situated all along the surrounding hills.  I remember my very first sight of Bodrum over 25 years ago, after an eight hour drive, we stopped on top of the hill right before entering the main town center; when I first spotted the white houses, typical of the region, lying across the hills near the blue waters of the Aegean and the port with Bodrum castle sitting amidst sailing boats in the middle of all this beauty, I thought it was a picture perfect scene.

The white houses with fuchsia bougainvilleas wrapped around the side are the emblems of this lovely Aegean town.  With each passing year these houses seem to come closer and closer to the airport and spread out all over the whole area.  Although the area is without a doubt, still one of the most enchanting, that first quaint sight of so many years ago is long gone.

One of the main claims to fame Bodrum has is its unparalleled nightlife.  When we were here the summer after graduating from college, every night my friend Terry and I used to go to Halikarnass, one of the most amazing nightclubs in the world, outdoors and right on the water.  Today, it is one of many around here and not as widely frequented by the Turkish party scene as other clubs in the outer bays like Turkbuku or Gundogan.  All the different bays have a special quality about them, that makes each one worthy of a separate trip.  With Bodrum being the main summer resort for anyone and everyone, there are so many restaurants, shops, cafes, bars and nightclubs to choose from that it is impossible to check each one out in a couple of weeks.

But the best part about Bodrum has to be the weather and the sea.  Even when it is 40 degrees Celsius outside, there is always a slight breeze and no humidity, making it the most ideal place to visit in the summer months.

We went into the city center today and I walked around the back streets while waiting for my husband, Mehmet to finish his business.  Wherever I go, I love to just wander around aimlessly, running into little back alleys with beautiful homes or old, rundown churches and mosques waiting to be discovered.   Today, I just entered one of the streets directly across from the Bodrum Marina, and I was in a totally different world.

The back streets I walked through, looked like any village street in this area of the country but I really loved the juxtaposition of the pastoral that is so close to the hubbub of the wild party scene.

After wandering around the back streets I decided to return to the marina and walk along the water. As I was strolling and stopping to take pictures to send to my friend Terry, I came by fishermen returned from the sea, selling their catch of the morning.  My mother-in-law has been asking for fish lately and we haven't been able to find any since there was a ban on fishing. I find out from the fishermen that the season has begun.  

This is the fresh catch of the day I had to choose from.  As I was having my selection cleaned, the two fishermen gave me a quick lesson on the varieties that were available out here and the specialty of the region.  I also got some tips on how to best prepare the fish.  We usually either grill our larger fish like Bluefish or Mackerel or fry the smaller variety like Red Mullet.  There are one or two exceptions where we stew Sea Bass with tomatoes, onions and peppers or bake it in a salt crust.  The fish that comes out of the seas surrounding Turkey are so tasty that we don't need to use any kind of a sauce with it.  I looked through all the fish laid out on the trays checking their gills to make sure that they were fresh and bought two different varieties for frying.  The only problem was in getting them home as soon as possible.  We put the air conditioning on full blast and rushed home to prepare them quickly.  Besides the fish, flour and oil, all we needed was a lot of newspapers.  I learned from my husband's aunt, Tuku to let the fish drain its extra moisture on a newspaper after washing and before cooking them.   

Lunch today was prepared with minimal fuss; I made a simple salad of tomatoes, cucumbers and onions with oil and lemon (juice of one whole lemon) while Bostan fried the floured fish in hot oil.  All of the 3 pounds of fish I brought home were consumed probably about four hours after they had been caught.  This is one of the major attractions of life in this part of the world, from the source to your table within a matter of hours.  I can't wait to see what surprises tomorrow has in store for me in this piece of heaven on earth.

Weekly Bazaar

All over Turkey, there is a bazaar setup in a different part of town or the city everyday of the week for the residents of the neighborhood to do their weekly shopping.  Tuesday is the day for our local bazaar in Ortakent.

We went to the bazaar today with Bostan, my mother-in-law's helper from Turkmenistan, who has become our cook/housekeeper for the duration of their stay with us, a character similar to Charlie's housekeeper in the popular sitcom, 'Two and a Half Men.'  We entered  the bazaar with a carefully organized plan of attack.  We had only twenty minutes and so much variety to choose from and a very long list..  My husband went to get our breakfast supplies from the dairy suppliers while Bostan and I went to the fruit and vegetable stands.

I love to go to the bazaar; it is not only the best place to get the freshest and highest quality fruits and vegetables but also very inspiring and stimulating.  These bazaars are a feast for the senses, the bright colors of the produce, the wonderful smells of the spices floating in the air along with the entertaining cries of the vendors turns any shopping expedition into a grand adventure.  The vendors pile their vegetables or fruits in a very artistic fashion and the greens and reds of the peppers, the deep purples of the eggplants lying next to the light green of the zucchinis is worthy of any artist's palette.  I love to pick up and smell, especially tomatoes, before I buy them; they are usually still warm from the sun and smell so sweet.

The sellers are specialized according to their specific produce.  The vegetable vendors usually have peppers, eggplants, green and pink beans, zucchini, tomatoes and cucumbers, and whatever vegetable that might be in season.  Then there are the vendors that sell fresh herbs like mint, dill and parsley along with salad greens, scallions and carrots, almost like a salad buffet.  The onions and potatoes stacked up high reminiscent of  Monet's 'Haystacks' might also have braided bunches of garlic to accompany them on the tables.  Melons and watermelons also get their special vendor who are usually at the entrances of the bazaar, maybe for the convenience of not having to lug them around the whole place.  Fruit vendors are very generous with their offerings of a taste of their juicy, delicious peaches, plums, cherries or grapes to any passerby with hopes of seducing them to make a sale; I am the biggest sucker when it comes to this.  I usually can never refuse any food offered and then I feel obliged to buy from that vendor; this is usually no hardship since the offerings are all so wonderful.

Bodrum's bazaars are also famous for their 100% cotton, natural textiles but we didn't have time to check them out this time since we were in a hurry.  I will probably indulge in another bout of serious shopping for towels and tablecloths this Saturday at the Turgutreis bazaar.