The Fourth Birthday Candle

Last night, I celebrated my birthday for the fourth and final time for this year.  All four of my mini celebrations were noteworthy and memorable but this one was doubly so since it was also my nephew's one month celebration.  Everything worked out incredibly nicely and we went out to dinner at a fabulous restaurant on Sunset Boulevard in West Hollywood where everything was absolutely perfect... really, no exaggeration ... at all.

Cravings is a restaurant owned by a Turkish chef Ibrahim Oztok that we had dined at on one of our prior visits to LA; it had left me with a favorable impression but this time the experience was just unforgettable.  I have been on a gluten-free diet since the beginning of the year and this can be most challenging when eating out.  As I have been doing for the past seven months, first thing I did was to ask our waiter if he could  possibly help me out to find something suitable from the menu.  He just gave me an assessing look and uttered what I most wanted to hear- "I think you can pretty much have anything you want on the menu but give me a minute, I'll go and check" leaving me gaping in his wake.  He came back to confirm his original bold statement and I went on a heavenly eating spree.

Before anything else, I chose my entrée, Crab Ravioli in a light lobster cream sauce and then proceeded to consider my other options.   I was pretty much like a kid at a candy store running through the menu forward and backward trying to find the most unattainable.  I finally decided I was craving for soup; I asked our assured waiter what kind of soup it was and he said it was a fantastic Chicken Curry Soup.  I was also informed that I couldn't have the rolls in the bread basket since they were made of wheat and only the Ciabatta was gluten-free.  I was so excited, I could've jumped up to kiss him on both cheeks... I refrained... we went on with our dinner.  From that point on every single thing we had was amazing...

Chicken Curry soup that was both delicious and light at the same time.  The little vegetables that could be discerned in the soup added a fresh and healthy edge to the already incredible taste.  I could go back there just to have this soup again.

My brother and Wendy ordered the Steamed Spicy Manila Clams in a white wine sauce with scallions, garlic and fresh herbs.  This was so good that we even finished off the sauce right down to the last drop ( dipping our ciabatta's into it... mmm.. mmm)      

My Crab Ravioli in light lobster cream sauce.  I always prefer pasta with a cream sauce and this one was one of the best I ever had.  The ravioli was more similar to Chinese Dumplings than the ravioli we are used to and this made it even more interesting; it was a savory mouthful with a delicate sauce to complement it to perfect harmony.

The Chicken Parmiggiana served  with fettuccine in a tomatoes sauce.  This is usually served with a Parmesan cream sauce but Wendy ordered it this way and was very happy with her choice.

 

This was Cenk's Traditional Lasagna which he said was good but would rate it third after our two incredible entrées.
I got so carried away with the food that I just realized I didn't mention anything about the restaurant... it is a first-rate Mediterranean restaurant with outdoor dining which is always a plus especially in a place like LA where you have near perfect weather year-round.   The service was exceptional; all three of us asked for water in a different way and our glasses were always filled properly.  It seemed like he knew what we might need one second before we thought of it ourselves.   The service made the whole dining experience all the more enjoyable.

Everything we dined on was so fabulous that I had to ask the waiter to recommend a desert for me. He didn't even blink when he said the Chocolate mouse meringue cake was incredible ... I didn't think twice.  Just around the time we were finishing  up our dinner, Prometheus decided to wake from his nap and demanded to be noticed, so we took our cake home with us.   Right before calling it a day we lit two candles, one for me and the other for Prometheus; Wendy and I blew out the candles together and went on to finish the heavenly concoction with delight.  It was the perfect ending for what had to be one of the most wonderful days... holding my little nephew, having a lively, stimulating conversation with my brother and his wife, indulging in one of the most unforgettable meals of the year and all of this as only one quarter of my birthday celebrations .. what more could a girl ask for???

CRAVINGS RESTAURANT
http://www.cravingsrestaurant.com/
8653 SUNSET BOULEVARD,
WEST HOLLYWOOD, CA 90069
TEL:  (310) 652-6104

Finally!!! That Sweet Baby Smell...

It was love at first sight!
Even though I was predisposed to adore him, the melting sensation I felt inside the minute  those brown eyes met mine and we connected was still a jolt.  It doesn't really matter if he can recognize me or not, all I know is that we have bonded.  The last time I felt anything close to this was probably when I was holding my own kids but then, there was also an element of panic and apprehension.  Now it's a pure  and  incessant love that knows no limits, the free, liberating love only an aunt can give.    

I don't remember life in a household with a newborn as being so serene or peaceful; I mostly remember the exhaustion and some days not being able to brush my teeth or hair by nightfall.  The sounds, smells and the never-ending amazement  are all the same, the only thing missing is the trepidation.  Now I see what all the fuss is about having grandchildren.

I spent the whole day just watching my nephew, holding him and taking pictures of him; I could do this everyday.   I have not felt so relaxed and content in a long while.  I guess this is what I must've needed.  All those souls searching for fulfillment might not need to go too far, if they could just hold and smell a newborn baby.

The Party That Never Was... the Birthday Stories Continue...

One fine day, back in June, as I sat on the porch looking at my flowers, I had an image of a table set with my mother's linens - an array of wild, exotic colors that match and complement the flowers growing in abundance in containers all around us... or... an all neutral color scheme of white table settings and pillows with a score of white candles burning to set the mood or to just ward off mosquitoes... I liked the picture I had in my mind and decided it was definitely doable... only... we needed an occasion.  The whole family tends to tred reverently when it comes to my mother's linens, so I definitely needed to find an auspicious occasion  for such an indulgence and, find it I did... my birthday dinner... I was quite smitten with the idea and decided that we would be a big happy crowd of the whole family along with a few friends or neighbors.  It didn't quite turn out that way.. but still, I got my wish.

As it turned out, my husband wasn't able to come back from Turkey with us and my mom was extremely busy as she always is around this time of year rushing to get ready for her trade show in New York at the end of the week and the people I wanted to invite weren't available.  I did not let any of this dampen my enthusiasm and went on with my plans of a big birthday dinner for myself; I wanted to cook and eat at home and was determined to make a good show of it. 

Two days ago I asked my mother, Nuko of Nuko Creations, if she had six matching pillows that she could spare for the house; a definite advantage of living in such close proximity to a home textile designer; she came home from work last night with a bag full of such vibrantly colored pillows that they made me jump.  I ran outside to the deck to put them around the table but was a little deflated to find it so hot and humid that it would have been impossible to eat outside.  Having already baked the cake and cooked and prepared to my heart's content, I decided to play around a little bit.. the boys were still at the gym anyway... we had plenty of time. 

So, as my mother was setting the table for us to eat inside, I set my fantasy table outside.  The linens she had at home for our use were perfect with the pillows she had brought home, a very deliberate coincidence, I am sure... and of course there is always an abundance of  materials in any of her homes for hundreds of different table settings.  So I played around for a little bit, the heat making it almost impossible to linger for too long, and created the picture in my mind.  After taking a couple of pictures, I went in to enjoy the meal I had thoughtfully and lovingly prepared for my family. 

Everything from the guacamole I prepared for Hasan to the steamed vegetable salad my mom loves, to the cookies and cream ice cream for Murat and pistacio ice cream I bought for my father were all thought thorough with care.  And of course I baked a gluten-free chocolate cake for myself from a cake mix that my amazing husband had found for me some time ago.   (This is my classic cake that I have been making since 8th grade, that everyone, absolotely loves.Due to the consistent success of these ready cake mixes, I have never really learned how to make a cake from scratch; I will go to any length for any other recipe but I refuse to make a cake that may never live upto the results I get from this.)  My frosting for the cake was Jello instant pudding - in this case it was the sugar-free Cheesecake that turned out wonderful.  And it was topped with fresh strawberries and banana slices...yummm... Oh, and of course it went great with the three different kinds of Haagen Dazs ice cream. 

So I blew out another candle, my third so far, with my sons and my parents; I am taking my pink candles with me to LA to light them on my fourth cake and celebrate with my nephew, brother and sister-in-law tomorrow.  It will be Prometheus' first month and my 44th year - I can't think of a better reason for a celebration.

It's My Birthday and I'll Celebrate it How I want To

It's my birthday today... It is the forty-fourth year of my existence in this exquisite, challenging and exciting life. This past year has been very interesting, full of enlightening experiences to bring me to new levels of awareness and I thought it only fitting that my birthday celebration should be just as unique.  To begin with, I wanted it to be about sharing and connecting with others instead of expectations for myself.  I also wanted to do what pleased me without waiting for approval or surprises... and I decided this year, I would celebrate four times in four different places and different people...
With these thought in mind, I bought myself a birthday cake last Saturday and went to have a double celebration with my great aunt, Sabiha Hala; she turned 98 this year and unfortunately I missed the birthday party her neighbors threw for her last month.  

Instead of the traditional Happy Birthday greetings, I picked one that said 'We Love You, So Glad You are Among Us' for the message on our cake.  Anyone who has ever met my Sabiha Hala would definitely agree this is the perfect sentiment for her... I would also like to hope that some day it would a sentiment my nieces and nephews would think in regards to myself...

I had bought her a bracelet with the evil eye to ward away 'Nazar' (bad things that can come upon a person due to other people's enviousness.)  So, at 11 in the morning, I got her out of bed to sit at the table I had set for her and blow out candles on a birthday cake for the two of us.  I don't remember ever having a more meaningful or memorable birthday experience.  She assured me that I reminded her of herself and she would 'bestow her hand' (pass on her wisdom and knowledge) upon me; in return I insisted I wasn't ready for the honor just yet.  


Later on in the day, I blew out another candle with my husband since he wasn't going to be with me today.  Although, his voice was the first one I heard this morning as soon as I woke up.  And now, I am ready to start my festivities here in New Jersey with ... who ever is available... 

I am planning to go bake a gluten-free cake for myself now and invite one or two people over for dinner.  We'll see how the rest of my celebrations will turn out... but... I have already received so many wonderful gifts this year ... a nephew, an incredible summer in Bodrum, news of another expected newcomer into the family, hope for a great year with my whole family nearby, and I have also given myself the gift of enriching my life through connecting and sharing...


Happy Birthday to Me...  So Glad to be in Among this World...

Dibeklihan - An Amazing Art Village..

I am very lucky to have a wonderfully artistic cousin, Ozlem, that I grew up with who is always on the lookout for interesting places, to spend our little, stolen moments together.  We were fortunate to be in Bodrum at the same time this year and found one evening to runaway together, leaving behind our husbands and families to enjoy amusing and gratifying conversation amongst wonderful works of art and antiques at a fantasy palace...

Dibekli Han is on the way to Yalikavak from the Turgutreis road (turn right by Kipa); there is a small sign that says Yakakoy on the left close to the beginning of the road before the descdend into Yalikavak through the hills.
As far as I understand it, this has been the genius project of an architect couple from Izmir as a reaction to Bodrum being overrun by developers and the paparazzi culture.  What a way to protest...
It consists of a series of buildings, which are on small alleys and streets named after famous Turkish artists, including several art galleries, a flea market, shops selling different handicrafts and even a little museum, all full of artifacts from all over Anatolia.  The presentation of the artworks and the items for sale even the sidewalks are so creative that I tripped a couple of times from not looking where I was going.  The works on view were just as amazing as the place itself and the accompanying musics were so perfect.  My particular favorite was the sculpture exhibit on the open courtyard of Artist Erdinc Bakla - http://www.erdincbakla.com/English/

There is also a restaurant on premises Dibek Sofrasi that serves local Aegean and Anatolian dishes that seemed to be very popular.  Tables were hard to get and we didn't have time to linger; the food presentation was worthy of the rest of the place and there was suppose to be live music two or three nights a week.

Dinner is not the only option since they have a coffee house in the courtyard that served the most flagrant and appetizing cakes and cookies.
We had to leave before we could partake any of their offerings and be satisfied with feeding our souls but this place is on the top of my to-do list for next year.
Another exciting development is that my cousin's husband Mehmet of one of my favorite blogs http://mehmetuyargil.blogspot.com/ is suppose to have an exhibition of his photographs there next May; who knows maybe I will get a chance to catch that.  I think I will put this on my wishlist right now.

An Amazing Village of Art that Satisfies All the Senses (check out their website)

DIBEKLIHAN
Yakakoy Cilek Caddesi,
Ortakent, BODRUM
Tel:  0532 527 7649

Romantic Sunset with Good Food

July 11 2010
Kadikalesi, Bodrum
It was the ending of a particularly windy day; we were suppose to have dinner with our friend Ali and his girlfriend Selen.  I am not sure who suggested it but Korfez Restaurant in Kadikalesi was the perfect choice for such a lovely evening.  My husband and I had dined here last year; we had arrived at a time when the sun was still up and chose to eat on the patio of the restaurant while I looked out longingly to the tables that were being setup for the dinner service, up front on the sand.  Our meal was good quality but not as memorable as the one we had on this particular evening, sitting at a table by the water, on the sand with the waves crashing vehemently all around us and the sun descending behind the hills of Kadikalesi... It was a magical evening... The food was great - typical Mediterranean- Aegean fare of wonderful mezes - all delicious but the 'Kopoglu' was the biggest hit at our table that night, and grilled fish we had at the suggestion of our server was wonderful as well.  We were told by another friend to ask if there was the secret specialty, squid prepared with its ink, but was not fortunate enough to run into this either time we were there; I will forever wonder about this until I can taste it for myself.  The biggest joke of the evening was about the waiter assuring us as we arrived that the weather would turn and the water would calm down, he said that he grew up in the area and knew the signs well... he was wrong but we took the random slight dousing as part of the charm of the whole experience.

Korfez restaurant is located in Kadikalesi, on the road between Turgutreis and Gumusluk.This tiny waterfront village  is one of my favorite places in Bodrum for its quaint, tranquil appeal that still retains its authentic pastoral quality.  The road between Turgutreis and Gumusluk is a winding road with lush flora that turns the whole panorama into a kaleidescope of pure colors, passing through small hamlets and resorts situated discreetly in the surrounding area.  As soon as you spot the 'bakkal' (grocery store) and the small mosque with the intricate, white minaret, you turn towards the water to reach a tiny square with a couple of hotels and restaurants.  There is a parking lot right in the middle and Korfez Restaurant is the first restaurant you will run into.  I highly recommend this place to anyone visiting the area, especially around sunset.

Video of Kadikalesi, Korfez Restaurant Review by a renown Turkish Gourmet

Korfez Restaurant
Kadikalesi Yalisi
Turgutreis - Bodrum
Tel:  0252 382 2757
       0542 311 4437

Last Two Dinners Out On the Town

We had two more free nights on our own left in Yahsi before we were to go to a hotel, to be with our friends for four days.   As much as these all inclusive establishments are convenient, I find them to be stifling as if I am losing my freedom somehow but this is the only way four families can get together in harmony so I go willingly.  This has been the reminder that has been on my mind…only two more nights to revel in the delights Bodrum has to offer.  I didn’t want to waste those precious nights by trying some new restaurant but wanted to go back to my favorites in order to savor them in conscious bliss and store the experiences in the recesses of my mind for the cold, hard winter days and nights of New Jersey.   So, we picked the two different establishments for two different reasons. 

Ever since the night of my son, Murat’s birthday dinner, in Yalikavak, I had been dreaming of O’ Sole mio and the incredible gluten-free pizza, Kutlu Bey prepared for me that night.  I was waiting for the opportunity to go back and it arrived on Saturday, as soon as Murat suggested we eat pizza.  I could already smell the wonderful aromas emanating from the tiny kitchen and feel my mouth start to water at the prospect of a fulfilling dining experience.  We arrived just as they were winding down from a huge order to-go to a yacht and were very lucky to find the place practically to ourselves; till the other patrons arrived, Guloren Hanim, the managing partner and Kutlu Bey Chef/ partner were able to chat with us as they took our order and later while we enjoyed our dinner.   This time, we just left the decision of what type of pizza to prepare to Kutlu Bey and we were not disappointed when he brought out a special pizza topped with freshly delivered imported hams and bacons from Italy and France.  But this wasn’t the extraordinary surprise in store for me that night; it came in the form of especially baked gluten-free garlic bread, same as the one my husband and son were having.  Not being left out makes me feel as happy as a kid…  The pizza was so good that it begged for a glass of red wine.  Everything that night, the green checkered table cloth, the roses in the terracotta vase, the red wine and the pizza on huge, white, round plates, even the art work displayed inside the shop were part of the perfect image worthy of a master artist.  We parted with the owners with wishes of seeing each other next summer and sharing email addresses and promises of keeping in touch.

Our next night’s dinner was just as gratifying for reasons besides the exceptional food.  My husband and I had gone out to eat at Palavra, a local restaurant in Yahsi which had been recommended by several of our friends; we were very happy with everything we tried. Palavra is a seafood restaurant that is situated right on the water with the tables setup on the sand and the sound of waves was the background music to our ears as we sipped our drinks and enjoyed excellent ‘mezes’; although I should actually say, while I sipped my ‘Raki’ (Turkish Ouzo) since my husband’s preferred beverage was Diet Coke, as usual.   When the waiter came to get our drink orders and I asked for a double ‘raki’, he suggested that I get a small bottle; when he saw me hesitate, he mentioned that they could put away the rest for the next time I was there.  Just the idea of having a bottle of ‘Raki’ with my name on it at a ‘meyhane’ (a drinking establishment) was so wicked that I had to do it.  We didn’t have any fish but we’ve been told it is just as great as their ‘mezes’.  We had eggplant salad, fava (broad bean paste), kopoglu – a local specialty (fried eggplant, peppers and tomatoes served in garlic yogurt), octopus salad, pilav with octopus, sea bass in mustard sauce, fried and grilled Calamari, and a shepherd’s salad (salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and onions with oil and lemon juice) – all fabulous… and wonderful accompaniments for my left over bottle of ‘Raki’.   They had baklava and ‘kalburabasti’ (a Turkish desert baked with flour and butter and then dunk in syrup) that Mehmet and Murat both raved about.  It’s definitely worth a trip into Yahsi for this dining extravaganza.

I can now go happily to my golden cage of open buffets and endless drinks knowing that I’ve already had the best.

Palavra Fish Restaurant  http://www.palavrabalik.com/tr/?main=restaurant

Ortakent Yahsi Belediyesi

Bodrum

Tel : (+90 252) 358 62 90
Gsm: (+90 532) 677 39 67

Gumusluk... Again...

An Art Studio on the way to Gumusluk...
Old windmills line the top of the hill as you climb up from Gumusluk to go to the main road between Bodrum and Turgutreis.  Unfortunately, there are very few of them left in the surrounding areas of Bodrum; these romantic relics were used to grind flour as late as the 70's.  Now, they can be found as souvenirs in gift shops.  This Studio built around an old windmill is very striking in the middle of the road, I hope to visit it one of these days.
 

Closeup of a restaurant on the main pedestrian street in Gumusluk... The main pedestrian street is lined with lots of quaint restaurants sitting on the water; on the other side of the street is their kitchens and refrigerators where their selection of 'meze' or fish are displayed for the customers to pick and choose from.

100% natural light fixtures made out of dried Gourd - this is a classic decorative object from this area of the country.  'Le Kabak' is a well-known brand that has its main shop in Derekoy, on the road to Gumusluk; there are at least two other similar shops past this one and it is a good idea to shop around before buying.

Morning Coffee Break turned into Major Road Trip

We are staying in Yahsi, a little seaside village of Bodrum.  Around here, every corner you turn is a new thrill, all the different bays have a different taste, a different feel to them; I have been planning to discover the other provinces in the area since I got here.  This morning I decided to take the opportunity of taking my mother-in-law out for coffee to go exploring. I put her in the passenger seat, started a commentary about our surroundings and began to drive.  There is road work going on between Bodrum and Ortakent and in order to avoid this I started to use the back-roads through Bitez, but I am not as familiar with the back roads for someone who is taking short cuts should be, ended up farther ahead of my intersection and didn't even realize it until I got into Bodrum.  I started off with the intention of going to Gundogan, but we found ourselves half way to the airport, totally north of the peninsula, on the road to Torba.  This turned out to be a pleasant surprise since the landscape around Torba is really beautiful and it's not as developed as other areas;  we could smell the pines surrounding us.

We past Torba and headed towards GolTurkbuku, this area has recently become very popular so I wasn't sure what to expect. All I know about Turkbuku is that it is the hangout of all Istanbul society and most of the big name hotels, restaurants or clubs have opened beaches and clubs here. So it was a big surprise to follow the signs for GolTurkbuku and find ourselves in a little village with humble guesthouses and motels.  I started driving into every little street I could find that headed in the direction of the water to find us a tea-garden or a cafe.  None of the narrow streets near the water had any available parking and the closest teahouse was quite a distance.  I finally found a large parking lot that belonged to a hotel, parked my car, helped my mother-in-law out of the car and headed straight for the tables set out in front of the yard.  When we questioned the parking attendant, we found out that we were actually in Golkoy and Turkbuku was the next bay over; the two municipalities together was called GolTurkbuku.  

The boats lined up before us advertised moonlight tours of different bays and coves.  There were small hotels and beaches lined up all along the shoreline.

We sat in the shade with a wonderful breeze and enjoyed our Turkish Coffee while watching the little bay and the people suntanning or swimming.  The sea seemed to be very clean and clear.  The combination name had me confused at first but now I realized that all the fuss must've been about Turkbuku.  Golkoy seemed like a lovely area, luckily, not spoiled yet, by overdeveloping.  After coffee, we took off to see if we could find Turkbuku.  The roads here have no logic to them, you go up and down hills and not necessarily end up where your sense of direction tells you to expect to end up but that's the beauty of driving around in such a place.  Getting lost is so much fun, you get to see all kinds of little streets and cute houses you would not normally get to see.  I really liked driving around the streets of Golkoy and taking photographs.  My only suggestion to anyone interested in coming here is to get in a vehicle and drive around, get lost and enjoy, you never know what will turn up around the next corner.

There were so many lovely homes with beatiful flowers on their doorsteps, I wasn't sure what to capture.  I am afraid the time of day and my Blackberry couldn't do justice to the essence of this charming place.

Finally, we made it to the main road and found our way into Turkbuku in a couple of minutes.  We drove down toward the shore to find the main pedestrian street by the water; it was open to cars at the time but we were informed that it would be closed in ten minutes, at noon.  It was getting hot out and I wanted to get my mother-in-law back home, this turned out to be just a scouting trip - we had to come back another time to explore Turkbuku.  Just as we were turning around I got a call from home, asking for tomatoes and lemons; fortunately today the bazaar was setup in Turkbuku. 

I ran in and out but not before taking a couple of pictures and buying a wooden spoon from a mobile vendor. He was calling out that he had the best 'Simsir Kasik' (Boxtree Spoon) I asked him about his spoons and why they were so expensive and he insured me that there was no way anything could happen to these best quality spoons.  I told him I could get them for 1 Lira in Istanbul while he was asking for 5.  With a huff, he finally pulled one out, stuck it in my bag and said 'Here you go, take it and go.'  I gave him all the change I had in my pocket and we said goodbye.  I have a thing for wooden spoons, I refuse to cook with anything else; I put this one in my suitcase as soon as I got home.  It is flat and suppose to be used to stir 'pilav' (Rice).  I will have to try it out to see if it really is as good as he says, because stirring 'pilav' is a risky business, it can get sticky.

We made our way back driving from Turkbuku to Yalikavak and then home to Yahsi again.  It was a nice road trip I hope to repeat again, hopefully this time using the shorter route so we will have more time to enjoy the view.

My Solution for an Empty Nest Syndrome.

I woke up feeling a little bereft this morning.  Both the boys were gone, Hasan had returned to New Jersey last week, Murat had left on a sailing trip for a week...it was just my husband, my mother-in-law, Bostan and I left in the house...  and today was Hasan's birthday too... So what do we do now, I asked myself, even before I got out of bed...  Since I was the first one out of bed, I moped around for a bit waiting for everyone to wake up. After a while I started to plan our breakfast, my brilliant solution to a mellow mood...  I would make eggs... something a little creative, maybe... Then my husband woke up and I asked him how he would like his eggs, his  response was 'Menemen' not at all surprising since this is his usual response to this question nine times out of ten.  'Menemen' is a Turkish invention that can be eaten for breakfast or for a meal since it is made with tomatoes and peppers and even at times, onions.  I am not sure if there is any one set recipe, as long as you add tomatoes and eggs.  I just go by whatever I have on hand at the moment or however the mood strikes me.  Here are the general guidelines:

'Menemen' (Eggs with tomatoes)

Olive oil
Eggs
Tomatoes
Peppers (Red or green)
Onion (Optional)
Parsley (Optional)
Cheese (Feta- Optional)
Salt and Pepper to taste

The following is how I prepared the eggs in the picture... you have free reign... go wild...

1.  I put 1 Tbspn of olive oil and 1 Tbspn vegetable oil in a pan and
2.  sautéd the diced red peppers  (1 big pepper)  meanwhile
3.  I put two big tomatoes in boiling water for two minutes (this will help to peel them very, very easily), took  them out, peeled and diced them;
4.  threw the tomatoes into the pan as well, keep on sautéing on low heat, till the liquid had evaporated from the tomatoes and only the oil was left with the vegetables in the pan - this takes about 10-15 minutes.
5.  I made little indentations in the tomato mixture and broke 5 whole eggs and 2 egg yolks into this.
6.  Closed the lid for a little bit and let it cook.
7.  I checked after a couple of minutes to see if the egg whites had started to cook- from now on everything depends on your taste- we don't like our eggs to be cooked too much so
8. when the eggs whites started look like they had started to set (Turned a white color from the clear liquid) I put my 1/2 cup of shredded feta cheese in at this point and cook until the cheese has melted,
9.  add the 2 Tbspn of chopped parsley and keep it on the heat for another minute and serve.

Afiyet Olsun...
Bon Apetite...

Note: If you want to add onions, add them with the peppers and cook them until they turn yellow.  You can use any kind of cheese but feta is the best suited one in my opinion.
Be forewarned, you will consume lots and lots of bread with this meal.  The best would be Turkish bread, of course, but a baguette or a sour dough will do fine as well.

Our Saturday Ritual in Turgutreis

Bodrum, Turkey

Most of my life I’ve felt like a visitor passing through without belonging to any place in particular; I would be forever getting ready for the next trip. When I was a teenager growing up in the States, I used to think that if we owned a summer house in Turkey, I would have a place and friends to call my own and feel a sense of normalcy somehow.  While most of my friends were envious of my life of jet setting across the Atlantic back and forth, I always envied their simple summer plans of going away to the same place to be with the same people, doing the same things.   Even having a family didn’t make a difference in my life, now I was moving the whole family back and forth. These were the thoughts I always had to contend with as I agonized over our summer plans every single year; we never were able create the stable atmosphere I had been longing for.    Maybe due to the fact that we now live in New Jersey, we were finally able to realize this lifelong dream of mine and get a house in Bodrum this summer.  Ironically, now it’s the boys who want to make plans of staying put and living like a normal teenager while we are dragging them here, for their own good.

I feel we have finally succeeded in creating the perfect atmosphere this summer of sharing good times with loved ones in one of the most beautiful parts of Turkey, a summer to remember and to repeat.  We feel at home and a part of a community that we are already making plans to return to next year; this is due in part to some simple rituals we have established as a part of our life here.  We go into Turgutreis every Saturday to have lunch, 'Manti' (Turkish Ravioli) especially prepared for us; Ali, the proprietor/chef asks us early on in the week, the only question of how many people it will be this Saturday.  So far, we have been there every week as a family with slight variations within the group.  This week our niece, Aydan, her husband, Yucel, my cousin, Ozlem, and her husband, Mehmet joined us.  Murat was suppose to leave for Marmaris, to go sailing,  but he just couldn’t go before he had his ‘Manti’ with the family and then my husband had to rush him into Bodrum to catch his bus.  

Another ritual is our shopping forays into the Turgutreis Saturday bazaar.  This week we had to pick up a couple of things for Murat to take with him on his trip so I took him to the textile part of the bazaar while Mehmet went to get our vegetables.  It was an incredibly hot and crowded day but still worth it for the photo opportunities it afforded if nothing else.  I have been checking out the colorful fabrics they have on display, trying to find excuses for buying the whole lot every week; I have to come up with something soon, since I won't get another chance after next week and I know I will be dreaming of these fabrics when I get home and kicking myself if I leave without buying anything.  Having a seventeen year old is not very conducive to this kind of frivolous shopping so I had to leave the bazaar without a single purchase this week as well.  I have some mean plans for next Saturday though, I just might get up at the break of dawn to beat the heat and the crowds and go crazy.  I have heard from my sister-in-law that the stands are setup before dawn, this I have to check out for myself and add to my list of unique experiences. 

Even as Murat was dragging me by the scruff of my neck, I was still able to get a couple of shots of the colorful array.

This is my favorite stand of table cloths and bedspreads and towels made from 100% natural cottons.  My newest obsession is the 'Pestamal', sarong-like cloths worn wrapped around in the Turkish Baths that absorb moisture like a regular towel and weigh next to nothing.  I have been buying them every time I go into the bazaar and I think I will take a dozen back with me to give as presents.  I have bought another variety of 'Pestamal' to use as a table cloth.  This place is a paradise for someone like me who is crazy enough to have a collection of textiles worthy of a seamstress.

After getting back across the street to the vegetable vendors, I couldn't resist taking more pictures of the stands there.  I am not sure if its the colors or the abundance of the array, I am totally fascinated with the displays. 

  

These are the dried vegetables sold by the spice vendors.  The dried eggplant is used to make a 'Dolma' using cracked wheat instead of rice with ground lamb and red pepper (according to taste, of course), in the winter months when they don't have the fresh vegetable.  The end result is something out of this world, to put a bit of sustenance in to anybody suffering in the cold, dreary winter months. 

I wonder if these textile would help to chase away the winter blues as well...

Breakfast at Gumusluk

I guess I must’ve read about it in a book at some point… having breakfast in Gumusluk… wherever I got the idea, this has been a picture I have been carrying around in my mind for the longest time.  It doesn’t sound like an impossible task but I was never able to realize this in our past trips to the area.  We would be staying in a different section of Bodrum and usually come by in the evenings for dinner or to have tea at the teahouse in the town square,  something that is mentioned in most guidebooks.  I don’t know how many times we came by here for these, but never in the morning for breakfast. 

There is something that appeals to me about early mornings.  Every city or town has a special feel in the morning that distinguishes it from all the rest like no other time of day; whenever I travel I love to get up early to experience that mood which I feel is especially mine to discover.  It’s usually me and the locals that are up and about at such hours; I love the smells and the sounds that can be deciphered more clearly and give the place its essence. 

When I left for my summer vacation, the first goal I had in mind was to give myself a time-off from the chaos of my mind that tends to go into overdrive as soon as I wake up… aka… sleep late.  This has been working out quite nicely and I have been waking up at hours I can’t seem to recall waking up at, maybe ever.  Unfortunately, the season being what it is and the heat during the day limiting our activities has made it a little difficult for me to get to some of the places I had planned on going to.  Gumusluk was on the top of my list of places I wanted to visit and I finally realized my only chance might be if I get up early enough in the morning. 

I first came to Gumusluk more than twenty years ago, with my husband-to-be and the impression it has left on me is still unaltered; this has to be one of cutest little villages I know of anywhere.  At the time, it was just a couple of seafood restaurants situated around a little cove, a teahouse in the town square and a few shops. Today it is a lot more restaurants, gourmet cafes, art studios and beach clubs but the same charming atmosphere still prevails.  It is reached by driving through, olive groves, orchards, small villages and quaint dwellings for about fifteen minutes from the main road between Bodrum and Turgutreis, following the signs for Gumusluk or Myndos.  It is the end of the road and you have to park your car here and walk around on foot to enjoy all that Gumusluk has to offer. 

Just as I was getting ready for bed last night, I remembered that I still hadn’t been to Gumusluk and going to breakfast there would be my new experience of the week (on any kind of trip outside of my regular dwelling, I always try to do at least one new thing that I had never tried before) So, I got up at 7.30 this morning and was on my way in ten minutes.  I hadn’t been driving since I came here and I was a little intimidated at first but after the first couple of kilometers I was humming to the tunes of Radio Kos from across the sea (you can see the Greek Island Kos very clearly from our balcony.)  Even though I could make out most of the songs, listening to a radio announcer talking in a foreign language gave the whole experience an exotic edge.  

I finally arrived in Gumusluk and drove to the left of the parking lot in the middle of town and found a shady parking spot behind one of the restaurants.  I was so excited that I had to restrain myself from jumping out of my car and running.  What greeted me when I made it to the main street was better than I could’ve imagined.   I found myself in an old fashioned teagarden – these are similar to a bar or café in the town square of an old European town.  I walked around for a little bit and noticed that there were a lot of little cafes that offered breakfast.  The original teagarden I saw was the most appealing so I went back there and found myself a table right by the water and ordered my first glass of tea.  Turkish tea is brewed in a special kettle that sits atop a kettle of boiling water and it is drunk out of small, dainty glasses.  The whole ritual of having Turkish tea is one of my favorites, I love the afternoon tea as well as the tea we have with our breakfast.  There were a lot of wonderful smells permeating the air but all of them are made with flour so that was a pleasure I couldn’t enjoy this morning. 

There was a slight breeze that was running through the air and I could sit and listen to the lapping waves while I watched the colorful boats docked in the little cove.  I sat there for about two hours and enjoyed the morning.  Around 9.30 little by little people started to fill the tables around me and I realized it was time for me to go, the magical hour was over.  Just as I was leaving I noticed a woman preparing her fruit juice stand and recognized her from last year.  We chatted for a bit about how business was and the restaurants in the area and then I had to leave.  The ride back was just as enjoyable as the ride going in.  I had done one of the things I had always wanted to do, enjoyed it immensely and decided that I absolutely had to come back here with my husband the next time.  There indeed is something special about having breakfast at Gumusluk; I hope to repeat the experience as often as possible this next week.